March Garden Tips
Spring is here—even if March still brings rain and the mountains get a late dusting of snow. Gardens are waking up fast. It’s a great month to plant, refresh soil, and get ahead of weeds and pests before warm weather arrives.
Feed actively growing plants, prune with bloom timing in mind, and manage water wisely so roots grow deeper instead of staying near the surface.
Feed Everything (within reason)
Most plants do their biggest growth push in spring. If you only fertilize once a year, early spring is the time to do it. The specific fertilizer matters less than applying the right amount at the right time—just don’t fertilize blindly. Many beds already have enough nutrients, especially if compost has been added regularly.
A smart approach
- Feed plants that are actively growing and look hungry (pale color, slow growth, weak bloom).
- Use compost or organic amendments to support long-term soil health.
- Water after fertilizing so nutrients move into the root zone.
Avoid common mistakes
- Don’t overfeed stressed plants (drought, frost damage, pests).
- Don’t push heavy nitrogen on plants prone to pests (like hibiscus + whitefly).
- Don’t fertilize and then forget to water—fertilizer needs moisture to work.
March pruning and cleanup
A simple rule: prune plants that bloom on new growth earlier, and wait on spring bloomers until after flowering.
Boxwood Hedges
Timing matters: aim for strong spring recovery and better interior growth.
Mature boxwood hedges are tricky because they’re expected to stay dense, green, and formal year-round. When boxwood is sheared repeatedly, it tends to grow only on the outside, leaving the interior shaded and sparse. Then, when you cut back to the “same size,” you expose older yellow-green growth.
A firmer trim near the end of winter/early spring can help you control shape and allow sunlight into the hedge, which encourages healthier interior growth. Expect some recovery time after any hard trim—spring vigor helps minimize downtime.
Lantana
One of the best “hard prune” plants—rebounds fast.
Lantana responds very well to heavy pruning. Cut it back to roughly 6–12 inches to refresh the plant and keep it compact. It will leaf out strongly as temperatures warm. Pruning now also reduces the chance you’ll end up trimming off flowers later.
Deadheading (extend bloom life)
Remove spent blooms before seed forms to keep plants flowering longer.
Deadheading is removing faded flowers before the plant completes seed production. Many annuals will keep blooming far longer with regular deadheading. For long-stem blooms like daylilies, snap off the spent flower where it meets the stalk. Other flowers often deadheaded the same way include iris, gladiolus, and kangaroo paw.
Photinias
Hold off—enjoy the red flush.
Avoid trimming photinias right now so you can enjoy the bright red new growth. Prune later once the color show has passed.
Star Jasmine
If you want maximum bloom, avoid early trimming.
In Southern California, trimming around mid-March can reduce late-spring flowering. If bloom is your priority, wait to prune until after the main flower show. If you must shape now, do it lightly.
Magnolias
Prune after flowering, and keep cuts minimal.
Prune magnolias after they finish blooming. They can be slow to callus over, so remove only what’s needed for shape and health.
Camellias
Best time is after bloom; late pruning can reduce next season’s flowers.
Mature camellias can handle pruning, including stronger rejuvenation cuts on overgrown plants. For most gardens, the best timing is after flowering. Garden View crews often prefer “inside-out pruning” to open up the plant so light reaches the interior and new growth develops throughout—not just on the outside.
Reference: Inside-out pruning vs. hedge trimmer
Cuphea
Cut back now for shape and stronger bloom.
Cuphea benefits from a spring cutback to improve structure and encourage a fuller flower display.
Fuchsias
Shape for stronger spring growth.
For hanging fuchsias, trim branches back to the container edge. For upright types, prune lightly so at least two nodes (“eyes”) remain on each stem.
Hibiscus
Good time to prune—go easy on fertilizer.
Prune hibiscus now for shape and fresh growth. Avoid heavy fertilizing; overly vigorous hibiscus growth can increase whitefly issues.
Hydrangeas (Bigleaf types)
Don’t remove flower buds—deadhead only.
Avoid pruning bigleaf hydrangeas in spring once buds are set, or you’ll remove this season’s flowers. Remove dead flower heads only.
Rock Rose (Cistus)
Don’t prune now—save shaping for after bloom.
Avoid spring pruning so you don’t cut off blooms. This is a very water-wise plant that prefers light shaping after flowering rather than hard cuts.
Brunfelsia (Yesterday, Today & Tomorrow)
Trim in early spring to keep compact; feed through the year.
Flowers shift color over several days (hence the name). Light shaping in early spring keeps it tidy and encourages better structure. It responds well to regular feeding.
Calliandra (Pink Powder Puff)
Don’t prune this month or you’ll remove blooms.
Hold off on pruning now so you can enjoy flowers. Prune in May instead, which often encourages another bloom cycle later in the year.
Russian Sage (Perovskia)
Cut back hard before new growth starts.
Cut nearly to the ground in early spring before new growth gets going. This water-wise plant flowers heavily in summer.
Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia)
Feeds well; remove damaged leaves and old stalks.
This is a low-maintenance plant that responds well to consistent feeding. Remove torn, damaged foliage and old flower stalks as needed.
Red/Mexican Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima) is different from Strelitzia. Prune to the ground in early spring for a compact mound.
Bush Germander (Teucrium fruticans)
Late winter to early spring pruning keeps it dense.
Prune now for shape and to encourage compact growth through spring.
Blue / Grey Fescue (Festuca glauca)
Cut back now to refresh clumps.
Trim back old blades so clean new growth emerges evenly.
Cape Rush (Chondropetalum elephantinum)
Clean old foliage before new leaves emerge; divide every 2–3 years.
Remove old foliage for a neat look. Divide clumps every 2–3 years in early spring. Establish with regular watering the first season to build deep roots.
Groundcovers
A cleanup trim now can trigger fresh growth.
Most groundcovers respond well to removing old or dead growth in early spring. A tidy cutback often stimulates new growth and better coverage.
Frost-Damaged Plants
Now is the time—after the last frost risk has passed.
If you had frost damage, you were right to wait. Prune damaged tips now so plants can flush new growth cleanly into spring.
Kangaroo Paw (Anigozanthos)
Remove spent flower stalks to prolong bloom.
After you’ve deadheaded roughly half the flowers on a stalk, cut the stalk down near the base to keep plants looking clean and blooming longer.
Mexican Feather Grass (Nassella tenuissima)
Shear before new growth for a tidy look (timing depends on seed heads).
Shearing before new growth starts keeps plants neat. If reseeding is a concern—or you like the seed heads—delay shearing until after flowering.
Feeding notes (trees & key plants)
Exact fertilizer amounts depend on tree size, product analysis, and your soil. When in doubt, use label directions or ask at the nursery.
Avocados
Feed in early spring and again in midsummer. Focus fertilizer around the drip line (not tight to the trunk) and water in thoroughly.
Citrus
Feed in early spring as the first of several annual feedings. Use a citrus fertilizer that includes trace elements (like iron) and water in well.
Citrus pruning
Do any needed shaping and cleanup before heavy bloom if possible. Remove dead wood and crossing branches; avoid heavy pruning that reduces flowering.
Pests, snails & water management
Insect watch
Spring’s soft new growth attracts insects. Check tender tips and undersides of leaves for aphids and other pests. Early control usually means less product is needed.
If conditions are dry and plants are stressed, spider mites may appear—strong water sprays (especially under leaves) can help reduce populations.
Snails & slugs
Protect new plantings early. Apply bait/deterrents promptly and reapply as needed. Water in the morning so the soil surface dries during the day—snails love constant surface moisture.
Keep bait away from pets and choose pet-safer products when needed.
Water management
Start conserving now: water only when the soil surface is drying, then water deeply to encourage deeper roots. Add a few inches of mulch around shrubs and trees to hold moisture and lengthen time between watering.
Planting notes (March is prime time)
Perennials
March is one of the best months to plant. Mix in plants with different bloom seasons so something is always happening. Don’t forget foliage plants for texture and year-round interest.
Shrubs
With camellias and azaleas in bloom, it’s a great time to shop by color. Amend soil with organic matter and plant with the root ball slightly above grade—burying the crown can cause failure.
Vegetables
You can plant a wide range of crops now: beets, cabbage, carrots, kale, lettuces, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, Swiss chard, and more. Early tomatoes like ‘Early Girl’ can be planted in warmer areas, but wait until April/May for most other varieties.
Re-pot aquatics
Divide and repot fast-growing pond plants now. Hardy water-lily tubers can be shortened and repotted while dormant. Use heavy clay soil for aquatics (not potting mix).
Turn Hydrangeas Blue
Aluminum sulfate can shift flower color on some varieties.
Apply aluminum sulfate (available at nurseries) to acidify soil and encourage blue flowers—when the variety is capable of changing color. Some hydrangeas are naturally pink or white and won’t turn blue.
Lawn maintenance
Keep cool-season turf around 2 inches high in spring (increase toward summer). Mow regularly to reduce weeds and keep lawns thick. Warm-season grasses like Bermuda and St. Augustine can be maintained around 2 inches through spring and summer.