May Garden Tips

May is late-spring momentum: longer days, faster growth, and warmer afternoons. This is the month to enjoy fragrance and blooms, shape plants after flowering, and adjust irrigation before summer heat. Keep an eye out for chewing pests and new growth insects—they multiply quickly this time of year.
Prune spring-flowering plants right after bloom, avoid pruning plants that are flowering now for fragrance, and keep feeding steady for warm-season growth.
Pruning and shaping in May
The guiding rule: prune after bloom for most spring-flowering shrubs and trees, and avoid pruning plants that are in peak fragrance/flower now.

Cleveland Sage
Best kept dense with early training and light tip-pruning once woody.
When young, Cleveland sage can be cut back in winter by about a third (or a little more) to encourage a fuller plant. Once it becomes woody, avoid hard cuts—stick to light tip-pruning and shaping.
The foliage is famously fragrant—often described as “clean, like a sweet desert morning”—and the blooms attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

White Flowering Peach
Prune after bloom for a strong flower show next year.
Once flowering is finished, shape lightly and remove crossing or crowded branches. Avoid heavy pruning later in the season, which can reduce next year’s bloom.

Angel’s Trumpet Trees
Shape after frost risk is gone; keep cuts purposeful.
Angel’s trumpet is often pruned in early spring after the last frost. If you’re still shaping in May, focus on structure: reduce long branchlets back to one or two buds and remove weak or awkward growth.

Buddleia (Butterfly Bush)
Blooms on new wood; stronger pruning = stronger regrowth.
Buddleia flowers on new growth. The classic approach is a hard cutback in late winter/early spring. If it wasn’t done earlier, you can still reduce the plant now—just expect a short delay in bloom as it regrows.
Deadheading helps encourage additional flowering, but heavy pruning during peak bloom will reduce flowers temporarily.

Pittosporum tobira (Mock Orange)
Don’t prune now — protect the fragrance.
Try not to prune pittosporum while it’s flowering. The blooms can be subtle visually, but the fragrance is a major feature. Shape after flowering if needed. This is a dependable, low-maintenance plant (including variegated forms).

Pineapple Guava (Feijoa)
Great time for shaping and cleanup.
Late spring is a good window to trim and shape pineapple guava. Remove awkward branches, thin lightly for airflow, and keep the natural form rather than tight shearing.
Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum)
Don’t prune now — enjoy the bloom and scent.
Star jasmine is usually in prime flowering season now. Prune only if absolutely necessary so you don’t remove the flowers and fragrance. It can be trained as a groundcover, shrub, or vine—shape it after the main bloom flush if you need to control size.
Dietes (Dietes iridioides)
Deadhead blossoms individually; keep flower stems until they stop producing.
To reduce self-sowing and prolong bloom, remove spent blossoms by hand. Don’t cut the flower stems right away—many stems continue producing blooms for a long time. Once a stem clearly stops flowering, cut it back to a lower leaf joint.
This plant can survive on minimal water once established.

Lantana
If it’s getting too vigorous, this is a “control” pruning window.
If lantana wasn’t cut back earlier and is starting to run, you can still prune it down (often to 6–12 inches). You’ll lose some bloom short-term, but lantana flowers heavily through summer. This is a good time to reset size before peak summer growth.
Low water needs once established, and a vigorous bloomer.
Euryops
Blooms much of the year—prune anyway to prevent legginess.
Because it flowers so often, euryops is frequently left unpruned and can become lanky. Light pruning a few times per year keeps it dense and attractive. Blooms return quickly, often with renewed vigor.

Rhaphiolepis (Indian Hawthorn)
After bloom, do minimal pruning and keep the natural form.
Once flowering finishes, do a light shape and cleanup. Mature plants are slow growing and usually only need trimming once a year. “Inside-out pruning” (selective thinning) helps light reach the interior without turning it into a tight green box.
Magnolia stellata & other early spring flowering trees
Prune soon after bloom—selective cuts only.
The best time to prune most flowering trees is shortly after blooming finishes. Avoid topping or shearing. Remove crossing branches and shape selectively to maintain structure.
Palo Verde & Mesquite (desert legumes)
Limit pruning now—save heavier work for later.
For desert legume trees, keep pruning minimal in late spring. Remove dead wood and very small limbs as needed, but avoid heavy pruning that stimulates tender growth right before summer heat.
Coleus
Pinch flower spikes early to keep plants compact and leafy.
Coleus is often treated as an annual. The blue flower spikes can be pretty, but they usually distort the plant’s shape. Pinch flower spikes at the bud stage to keep coleus bushy and focused on foliage.
Banana Trees
Heavy feeder + steady moisture (not soggy) + correct stem management.
- Soil: rich, well-drained; bananas prefer more acidic conditions and do not tolerate salt well.
- Water: bananas need a lot of water, but avoid waterlogged soil (root rot). Aim for consistently moist—not soggy—soil.
- Fertilizer: feed monthly with a balanced fertilizer. Apply in a wide ring away from the trunk (never against the trunk).
- Pruning/stems: keep one main stem before fruiting. After ~6–8 months, keep one sucker as the replacement for next season. After harvest, cut the fruited stem down (often ~2.5′) and remove the remainder later, leaving the replacement sucker.
Feeding and mowing (May)
Most fertilizers work—but they don’t work sitting in the garage. Apply correctly and water in after feeding.
Feed all trees and shrubs
Choose a fertilizer you’ll actually use and follow the label directions. Consistency matters more than brand. After feeding, water deeply so nutrients move into the root zone.
Feed subtropicals
New growth on banana, bougainvillea, citrus, gardenia, hibiscus, lantana, and natal plum usually means it’s time for a complete fertilizer. Keep fertilizer off trunks and water in thoroughly.
Feed & mow lawns
Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, St. Augustine, zoysia) respond well now. Use a higher-nitrogen fertilizer, then deep-water. Start Bermuda mowing low (around ¾”) and raise mowing height gradually as summer approaches.
Feed flowers & vegetables
Use low-nitrogen food for flowering/fruiting plants. For leafy crops (like lettuce), higher nitrogen encourages vegetative growth.
Pest watch
Control plant-damaging pests
Check plants weekly. Handpick slugs/snails when possible, and use bait responsibly. For caterpillars and “worms” (cabbage worms/loopers, corn earworm, geranium budworm), use a product containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) per label directions.
Budworms love petunia buds—catching them early prevents a lot of frustration.
Water timing helps pests
Water in the morning when possible so the soil surface dries during the day—snails and slugs prefer constantly moist surfaces. Avoid overwatering, especially in shaded beds.
Planting in May
Plant subtropicals
Heat-loving plants can go in now: avocado, banana, bougainvillea, citrus, hibiscus, macadamia, and palms. Protect thin-barked trunks (especially avocado and citrus) from sunburn with whitewash, white latex paint, or tree wrap.
Plant summer flowers
Set out nursery starts of ageratum, asters, celosia, cleome, coleus, dwarf dahlias, dianthus, dusty miller, fibrous begonias, gloriosa daisy, impatiens, lobelia, marigolds, petunia, portulaca, salvia, Shasta daisy, sweet alyssum, verbena, vinca rosea, and zinnias.
Start seeds for summer color
Sow centaurea, coreopsis, cosmos, gaillardia, nasturtium, nicotiana, nierembergia, and sunflowers directly in the ground—or start in containers for transplanting later.
Plant vegetables
Set out seedlings or start seeds of beans, carrots, corn, cucumber, eggplant, melons, peppers, pumpkins, radishes, squash, and tomatoes. Root and vine crops usually perform best when sown directly in garden soil.
Plant warm-season grasses
Plant Bermuda, dichondra, St. Augustine, and zoysia as temperatures warm. Water as often as needed during establishment so tender sprouts don’t dry out or burn.

