June Garden Tips

Bougainvillea ‘Raspberry Ice’

Don’t prune — preserve blooms.

This compact bougainvillea can be kept shrub-like and contained. Prune only when truly necessary so you don’t cut off flowers.

If bougainvillea isn’t blooming (and you haven’t pruned off the flower wood), the most common cause is overwatering. Bougainvillea blooms best with minimal water, and growth calms down when you reduce irrigation.

Prune Azaleas

Prune immediately after bloom to protect next year’s buds.

The best window is right after flowering finishes (often June or July). Major pruning later can interfere with next year’s bud development. Start by removing dead or injured branches, then reduce tall, gangly shoots that stick up above the plant to restore a compact shape.

Ficus nitida (retusa) hedges

Fast, dense, and popular—also needs regular pruning and smart placement.

Indian laurel fig is a favorite Southern California hedge because it fills in quickly and stays dense. Plan for pruning frequency, and plant where roots won’t become a hardscape problem—or install root guards where appropriate.

Photinia

Good timing once the red flush matures and flowering ends.

After bloom, and once the bright red flush is no longer “new,” it’s a good time to prune to keep photinia compact and better shaped.

Wisteria

First of three annual prunings: June, August, and December.

On established plants, prune now to encourage flower bud development and keep size under control. Cut unwanted new growth back to about three buds above last year’s resting point. You can often spot where last year’s wood ends by a change in stem/bark color.

Thrips on Ficus (leaf curl)

Curled leaves on ficus hedges are often caused by thrips.

If ficus leaves curl tightly, gently opening the leaf can reveal tiny light-colored insects and small darker insects. This usually doesn’t slow the hedge much, but it can look unattractive.

Many maintenance crews treat when aesthetics matter. Repeated treatments may be needed during active periods—follow label directions and consider impacts on beneficial insects.

Australian Brush Cherry (Eugenia) & psyllids

Psyllids can scar leaves; even after control, scars remain for a while.

Eugenia (Syzygium paniculatum) is a popular hedge/tree but often gets psyllids. After an infestation is controlled, damaged leaves can remain scarred. Many psyllid populations decline naturally over time, and plants can tolerate some feeding.

Where hedges are highly visible, crews often prune to remove scarred leaves and restore appearance. Broad insecticides can reduce beneficial insects, so timing and necessity matter.

Citrus Leaf Miner

Most serious on young trees and tender new flush growth.

As citrus pushes new flush growth, leaf miners can become a significant issue—especially on young trees. If an older tree has lost a lot of foliage, it can also be vulnerable.

Targeted, low-impact options are often preferred around edible plants. Some pros use spinosad-based products; always follow label directions and avoid unnecessary applications. Many find removing heavily infested leaves first improves results.

Chlorosis (Gardenias, Azaleas, and other shrubs)

Yellow leaves with green veins often indicate iron unavailability or root/pH issues.

Chlorosis commonly shows as yellowing leaves with green veins. It can be caused by iron deficiency/unavailability, soil pH that’s too high, poor drainage, root problems, or a combination.

Helpful first steps: improve drainage, avoid overwatering, and use an appropriate fertilizer that includes iron. Iron chelates may help “green up” leaves over a few weeks. If problems persist, a soil change to a more acidic organic mix may be needed.